Penang to ban foreigners from cooking local hawker dishes in 2025

As part of the ban’s expansion, a total of 13 local dishes can no longer be prepared by migrant workers. Nasi lemak, asam laksa, char kway teow, Hokkien mee, and chee cheong fun are just some of the plates only locals will be able to craft. 

Penang state councillors and members of local government have stated that the policy aims to preserve the authenticity of local dishes while ensuring the quality of the plates that have made the state a food tourism hotspot. This comes after local reports of Penang’s food quality declining in recent years.

The dependency on foreign labour was cited as another justification for the ban, with hopes to create more job opportunities for locals. 

Under the current terms of the ban, the licenses of 17 government-owned restaurants were revoked. Penang state assemblymen motioned for more aggressive action against local hawkers employing foreign cooks. 

On social media posts covering the ban’s new terms, comments were quick to point out the validity of preserving authenticity—that food stands as one of the most important symbols of national heritage. Others brought into question the aim of bolstering job opportunities for locals, claiming that Malaysians are less likely to accept the minimum wage payouts associated with hawker stalls. 

Comments also pointed out the counterproductive nature of the ban, claiming that if the roles were reversed and Malaysians were banned from preparing global cuisines in other countries, public outcry would reach new heights. 

See also: 7 heritage-inspired boutique stays in Penang, Malaysia

With Malaysians seeking higher levels of education and favouring better-paying corporate jobs, local hawker centres and food courts may be faced with unprecedented operational speed bumps. Owners of hawker stalls in Penang have stated migrant workers assist with daily tasks integral to a restaurant’s operation.

Despite aiming to prevent local hawker culture being monopolised on by non-Malaysians, with penalties that put the licenses of restaurant owners at risk, the ban may instead cause the closures of many Malaysian-owned businesses. 

As the ban begins to come into fruition, the origins of the 13 mentioned dishes need to be considered. If this ban had been implemented centuries ago, under British rule, a majority of these foods would not exist. With the policy being grounded in upholding local food culture, it is important to recognise that Malaysian cuisine was shaped by years of migration.

Roti canai, asam laksa, and chee cheong fun have roots in foreign cuisines and can now be considered distinctly Malaysian after significant adaptation and cultural interaction. 

Don’t miss: The best roti canai in Malaysia, according to chefs
 

Hokkien mee, in particular, is thought to have descended from Fujian lor mee and has since seen two Malaysian incarnations. In Penang, the dish is defined by its spicy prawn broth, which was named after the Hokkien ancestry of local hawkers. In Kuala Lumpur, the dish is entirely different. It has a thick dark soy sauce marinating egg noodles, which was invented by a Hokkien immigrant, Ong Kim Lian. 

While the penalties for failing to comply with the ban have yet to be outlined, reactions prove divisive, with local hawkers fearing the fates of their businesses and those without restaurant experience lauding the move to preserve Malaysian cuisine. 

See below for the full list of dishes: 

• Nasi lemak
• Pasembur
• Asam laksa
• Mee sotong 
• Char kway teow
• Kway teow soup
• Hokkien mee
• Curry mee
• Wan tan mee
• Loh bak
• Chee cheong fun
• Oh chien 
• Char koay kak

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